create-react-app to start a handful of "real" projects. I've ejected from each of them, but have been very happy with using the CRA scaffold as a starting point. I've found the code left from ejection to not only be readable, but made me a better programmer from reading their decisions, patterns, and use of webpack. Their abstraction between CRA and react-scripts has been a good one.
As an analogy, I think it's much easier to start with a nice big ball of clay and shave it down to where you want it, rather than start with a bucket of water and a pile of soil. After a few times of doing molding your base, you'll understand what you want and need out of all of it, then you can use that as your starter — copy and pasting some webpack config and build scripts, or cloning from a starter repo.